Repair cost · Body & Dents
Paintless Dent Repair Cost
Average cost: Paintless dent repair (PDR) costs about $125 to $200 for a tiny door ding and $150 to $250 for a dent around one inch across, according to ThePricer. A 2 to 3 inch dent runs $200 to $400, a 4 to 8 inch dent $350 to $700, and a sharp crease $600 to $1,500 or more. Hail damage across a whole car costs $2,500 to $6,000 for moderate damage and $6,000 to $15,000 or more for severe damage.
| Single dent, by size | $125–$1,500 |
|---|---|
| Sources checked | 1 |
Paintless dent repair, usually shortened to PDR, removes dents by working the metal back into shape from behind the panel with metal rods and picks, or by pulling from the outside with glue tabs. Because the factory paint stays in place, there is no sanding, filler, primer or repainting. That makes PDR far cheaper and faster than traditional body work for dings, small dents and most hail damage, as long as the paint is not cracked or chipped.
Paintless dent repair cost by dent size
PDR technicians price most jobs by the size, depth and location of each dent. ThePricer's national ranges:
| Dent | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Tiny door ding (smaller than a dime) | $125 – $200 |
| Small dent, about 1 inch | $150 – $250 |
| Medium dent, 2 to 3 inches | $200 – $400 |
| Large dent, 4 to 8 inches | $350 – $700 |
| Creased dent | $600 – $1,500+ |
| Several dents on one panel | $300 – $1,200+ |
Source: ThePricer.
Round, shallow dents on a flat area of a door or fender are the easiest and sit at the low end. Sharp creases are harder because the metal is stretched along a line rather than pushed in at a point; a technician has to work it out gradually, and a severe crease may not come out fully without body work.
How shops actually price a dent
Many PDR shops publish a starting price for the first dent and charge more per inch or for each additional dent. ThePricer lists three examples:
- Appearance 1st: $165 for the first inch, plus $65 for each additional inch.
- National Dent Repair: $150 for the first inch, plus $50 for each additional inch.
- Dent Evo: about $195 for a typical door ding.
On that kind of pricing, a single 3-inch dent would come to about $295 at the first shop ($165 + 2 x $65) and $250 at the second ($150 + 2 x $50). Additional dents on the same visit are often discounted, so it pays to have all the dings on the car fixed at once.
Hail damage repair cost
Hail leaves dozens or hundreds of small dents across the roof, hood and trunk lid, so it is priced per panel or per car rather than per dent. ThePricer's ranges:
| Hail damage | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Moderate (scattered dents on several panels) | $2,500 – $6,000 |
| Severe (heavy denting on most top panels) | $6,000 – $15,000+ |
Hail is usually a comprehensive insurance claim. Insurers and PDR shops count dents per panel and grade them by size, and many shops that specialize in hail work directly with insurance adjusters. If you have comprehensive coverage, your out-of-pocket cost is usually your deductible. After a major storm, traveling hail repair crews often set up temporarily in the area; check reviews and warranties before handing over your keys.
What raises the price
- Size and depth. Bigger and deeper dents take more time and more passes to work out.
- Creases and sharp edges. These are slower and more skilled work than round dents.
- Location. Dents on a body line, near the edge of a panel, or behind a brace with no access from behind are harder to reach. The technician may need to remove an interior trim panel, headliner or tail light, adding labor.
- Panel material. Aluminum is harder to reshape than steel and less forgiving. ThePricer notes aluminum panels typically add about 25% to the price. Many newer trucks and some luxury cars use aluminum hoods, doors and beds.
- Number of dents. More dents mean a higher total but often a lower price per dent.
- Mobile service. Some technicians come to your home or office, which is convenient but may cost slightly more than visiting a shop.
When PDR will not work
Paintless dent repair only works if the paint is intact and the metal has not been stretched too far. Traditional body work, with filler and repainting, is needed when:
- the paint is cracked, chipped or flaking at the dent;
- the dent is very sharp or the metal is torn;
- the damage is on a plastic bumper cover (PDR is for metal panels, though bumpers can sometimes be heat-reshaped);
- the panel has been repaired before with body filler;
- the dent sits on a seam or an edge that cannot be reached.
A reputable PDR technician will tell you up front if a dent cannot be fully removed. A dent that is improved but not perfect may still be worth fixing for the price difference compared with a full repaint.
PDR vs. traditional body repair
The main advantages of PDR are cost, speed and keeping the original paint. Most single dents are fixed in an hour or two, often while you wait, compared with a few days at a body shop for filler, primer, paint and clear coat. Original factory paint also matters at resale: paintwork on a panel shows up on a paint-thickness gauge during an inspection and can raise questions about past accidents. Traditional body work is still the right choice for torn metal, damaged paint and large collision damage.
DIY dent repair kits
Glue-puller and suction-cup kits are sold for tens of dollars and can pull out a shallow, round dent on a flat panel. They are much less effective on creases and body lines, and pulling too hard can create a high spot or crack the paint, turning a cheap PDR job into a repaint. If the car is new, valuable or leased, a professional repair is usually the safer choice.
Questions to ask a PDR technician
- Can the dent be fully removed, or only improved?
- Is the price per dent, per inch or for the whole panel, and are extra dents discounted?
- Will any trim, lights or interior panels have to be removed?
- Is there a warranty on the repair?
- For hail: do you work directly with my insurance company?